From 69ea4c1e62f10951247e8dc5a22563bfd70d15db Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Francis Rowe Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 21:00:05 -0500 Subject: docs/install/bbb_setup.html: Replace 3.3V PSU photo with ATX PSU --- (limited to 'docs/install') diff --git a/docs/install/bbb_setup.html b/docs/install/bbb_setup.html index 8393215..e691c7d 100644 --- a/docs/install/bbb_setup.html +++ b/docs/install/bbb_setup.html @@ -40,13 +40,8 @@ (they break easily).
  • - External 3.3V DC power supply. The one used by this - author has the label HF100W-SF-3.3 on it, but any decent - supply will be fine. Some people use the 3.3V from an ATX - PSU for instance (the kind that you get on a typical - Intel/AMD desktop computer. 6A supply should be fine, - the one used by this author is 20A (it won't actually use - that, it's just what the PSU is capable of). + External 3.3V DC power supply. + An ATX power supply / PSU (common on Intel/AMD desktop computers) will work for this.
  • jumper cables (2.54mm / 0.1" headers) @@ -77,41 +72,27 @@

    Setting up the 3.3V DC PSU

    +

    - This section is probably useless to you. For example, you might be using an ATX PSU instead. If so, set that up - for 3.3V power and ignore this section. -

    -

    - With my PSU, first I had wire up the mains power cable. Any clover or kettle lead will do. Cut the end off (not the one - that goes in the wall, but the kettle/clover connector). - Strip the protection away by a decent length, then strip the wires inside so that a decent amount of - copper is shown. Then wire up earth/live/neutral. This will vary according to what country you live in - and/or the colour codes that your cable uses inside. Make sure to get this right, as a botched job - could result in extreme damage to you and your surroundings. Here's what mine looks like:
    - -

    - Make sure that the plug (for the wall) has the correct fuse. In my case I had a 240V wall socket, and the device - says that it accepts 1.5A at that voltage, so I used the smallest fuse available (3A). For 110-120V the device - says it needs 2.8A. Also, if yours looks like in the image linked above, make sure to wrap electrical tape (lots) - around the terminals, for safety. (otherwise, don't touch the terminals while the PSU is plugged in). + ATX PSU pinouts are on wikipedia

    - Now take a red and black 20cm female-female jumper lead, and cut one of the ends off. Strip away the bare copper by about 1 or - 1.5cm so you get this:
    - . + On 20-pin ATX PSUs, you can use pin 1 or 2 (orange) for 3.3V, and any of the ground/earth sources (black cables). + Short PS_ON / Power on (green) to a ground (black. there is one right next to it) using a wire/paperclip/jumper then + power on the PSU.

    - Black goes on 0V, red goes on +V. In my case, I removed those screws from my PSU like this:
    - . + On newer 24-pin ATX PSUs, there is an additional 3.3V (orange) on pin 12.

    - Then I twisted the exposed copper on the jumper leads (so that they don't fray), and wrapped each to one of the - screws each, around it near the head. I then screwed them in:
    - + You only need one 3.3V supply and one ground for the flash chip, after grounding PS_ON to ground. + Multiple 3.3V supplies means that you could theoretically power multiple flash chips at once with the + same PSU.

    +

    - If you are using a different PSU, then the steps will change from those above. Anyway, once you are satisfied, - continue reading... + Here is an example set up:
    +

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